Beauty Ideals and Plastic
Surgery in Japan:
A closer look at blepharoplasty
Beauty standards. They exist worldwide, portrayed through
nearly every platform of visual media consumable to the public. White teeth,
clear skin, perfect glossy hair, careful attention to fashion, the list goes
on. This same concept of “standards” we are familiar with here in the United
States is applicable around the globe, across modern borders, different
countries across the map, over 6,000 miles away: Japan.
Focusing in on the modern Japanese woman, what is the first
thing you see? Her clothing? Hair and makeup, perhaps? Height, weight,
ethnicity—all of it, if she is the common follower of social rules, norms, and
expectations, is the streamlined product of visual culture. The image of
“woman” is dictated by what is shown to be the next trend, be it deliberately
in ads for products specific to the purpose, or by example as it is paraded
around by celebrities and iconic leaders. Many trends are brief and pass
quickly, but others are deeper; some are more sinister than others because they
are so commonplace, so normalized that they are expected of nearly everyone.
Even more so when this expectation can go so far as surgery.
The kawaii trend in
Japan has been a long standing one. Girls with high pitched voices, girly
skirts and dresses even in colder months, delicate nails, countless accessories
and cute ornaments, the list goes on. While there are many different degrees to
which this trend can be exhibited, the general benchmark features large, bright
doe-eyes, and innocent makeup. But, if you look closely, there is a very subtle detail that can be easily missed.

Take these two photos for example. They are makeup tutorials for Japanese girls, most likely found in one of many beauty magazines. Both are very similar; they feature an innocent, expressionless girl with large, bright eyes. While the entire layout of the page seems to suggest cuteness as the main focal point, the coy expression and poses of the models relay an undercurrent of "forbidden sexuality", making the look all the more alluring. However, look even closer and you'll notice a few more interesting bits. To achieve this makeup look, girls will need to invest in a few extra products; a natural Asian face will not do. Both photos even emphasize some of this--false eyelashes are a necessity. The models are also sporting colored circle lenses, contacts designed to change the color of darker eyes while at the same time enlarging them to appear more doll-like and innocent. The last detail is something that isn't very often noticed or even considered to many people--their eyelids. Both models have double eyelids.
What exactly are double eyelids? To have double eyelids means there is a crease above the lid of the eye that defines the brow bone from the eyelid. For many Asians, this is a defining trait of their ethnicity. While there is a percentage of Japanese people who have naturally occurring double eyelids, most must use other methods to create this coveted look. As seen in the photo below, a double eyelid serves to open the eye significantly, also allowing makeup to be applied directly on the lid, crease, and brow bone separately.
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| Asian mono lid versus double eyelid - before and after blepharoplasty surgery |
There is a great multitude of products marketed to Japanese women in order to achieve the desired style. These products can include eyelid glue, tape, stickers, mesh/lace, trainers, or even improvised techniques like using band-aides. As shown above in the magazine makeup tutorials, there aren't as many advertised makeup looks that feature mono lid eyes. What's more is that many of the looks depicted cannot be completed on mono lids. For this purpose, it is almost mandatory to purchase products like those shown below in order to be "in" with the latest beauty trends.
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| Beauty magazine advertisement for double eyelid products, including the band-aid trick, glue, tape, and fibers |
Above shows ads for double eyelid products. The layout of the page is similar to the first two photos showing makeup tutorials; a pink background, large close-up images of the models, and step by step processes for how to achieve the look. Looking at the models, similar trends can be seen in this ad as the other two. All models wear false eyelashes and circle lens contacts, some models now have blue or golden eyes. They also all have the same coy look on their faces as the other makeup models shown earlier, innocent yet sultry, positively alluring. Of course, they all have double eyelids; that's what these products aim viewers to focus on. This product is obviously shown to be a positive change, an enhancement of a woman's image.
Looking at some of these products, another interesting trend shows up. Take a look at the two ads below. What does one notice? Obviously the absurdity of the first product, claiming that wearing the special glasses can train your eyelid to hold a new shape, attracts one's attention immediately. The other has a more relaxed feel, almost spa-like. However, these two ads show a common theme--blue-eyed Casucasian models. The people shown to represent this product, designed for Asians, are actually Caucasian. Not even half Asian. Full-on Caucasian. They also are different from the Asian models shown above; they don't appear as cute or coy, less innocent and instead features a face full on. There is no shy tilt to the model's head, and they have a more direct piercing and mature stare than the Japanese girls. Both models appear relaxed, but again, neither truly embody the kawaii look that is exuded by the Japanese girls.
One student mentioned in class that the eyeglasses don't even work on some Asian eyes; because of the fatty layer on the eyelid (typically removed during blepharoplasty procedure, shown below) the crease cannot be made with such a product. From my sub-par understanding of the Japanese language, if looks like the other ad may also be a trainer of sorts, as it claims that if you use this product while you sleep you will get double eyelids. Either way, the Caucasian model gives no indication as to how this product functions with it's intended audience: Asians.
While there are all these products around to create the desired look, they're still not a permanent "fix". Some people may be satisfied with going through the same beauty routines day after day, others are looking for a procedure that can offer long-term results--blepharoplasty.
Look up images of blepharoplasty on the internet, and you'll probably see a lot of smiling Caucasian faces with eyes that have been relieved of their bags or had their hoods lifted off them. It's not until you type "asian blepharoplasty" or "double eyelid surgery" that you end up seeing the surgery in question. Conducted on both men but mainly women, this surgery offers a more permanent alternative to double eyelid products that take up time every day and can get expensive over time.
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| Surgical process for blepharoplasty. Note "beautiful" double fold is the result. |
While the surgery is used for many different purposes today on many different races and ethnicities, the procedure finds it's roots deeply in racism. The first surgery performed was as early as 1895, however the first notable case was that of Shima Kito in 1926. A Japanese man dating a Caucasian woman from Detroit proposed; while the relationship was a loving one, her parents simply couldn't agree with interracial marriage. To win her parents approval, Shima Kito went under the knife, altering his face shape, nose, and eyelids to erase is Japanese ethnicity. Going so far as to change his name, the newly born William White was able to marry his dream girl. It only cost him his own identity.
Besides "William White", other Asians sought to change their identities to get ahead in life. In a sick twist of fate, Vietnamese bar girls underwent the procedure to catch the eyes of foreign soldiers deployed in their country. To become more similar to their oppressors was to gain respect and attention from them, and so they sought to change their identity to do so. This practice seems to continue to this day. Many Asians undergo the surgery to elevate their places in society. For another example, let' have a look at Julie Chen from CBS News. After being criticized by an old boss for appearing "disinterested" because of her Asian eyes, she decided to get double eyelid surgery to make them appear more open and bright. She also mentioned that as soon as she changed her eyes, her career improved significantly. But was it really because she seemed more interested and invested in her work, or because she looked less Asian and was subject to less racism as a result?
| Julie Chen, before and after double eyelid surgery |
More modern day women do have the procedure for similar reasons, however more people speaking about their decisions on online blogs and social media reveal that there are more reasons behind getting the surgery than trying to avoid looking Asian. Many girls get unsolicited offers from their parents to get the surgery, or are encouraged by friends to go through with it. Others watch all their friends go under the knife so they end up joining in. One Japanese blogger reports that she had used eyelid tape for years and was just sick of having to put it on every day. She describes the procedure she underwent (different from the normal cut a sew; this technique is less invasive and is reversible) as well as what went on during her consultation with the doctor. Below shows the different options she was given for surgery, and her before and after photos.
| There are a multitude of ways to craft the "perfect" Japanese double eyelid |
| The Japanese blogger's eyes pre-surgery, sporting circle lens contacts and showing evidence of years wearing eyelid tape |
| The Japanese blogger's new look features lash extensions, still wearing circle lens contacts, and of course, her new surgically created double eyelids. |
While she stresses the reasoning behind her surgery was because she didn't want to have to wear tape or glue anymore, she never discussed why she wore the tape or glue in the first place. Was it because that was the trend? Because that was what was expected of her? Because she felt ugly or oppressed because of her natural mono lid? We may never know.
Some Japanese women are trying to re-take the surgery, stating the reasoning behind it is because they want to be the best version of themselves, not because they're trying to be Caucasian. The surgery is used to open up the eyes to make them look larger and brighter, and for those who have a very heavy mono lid, they report feeling like they look tired or too serious. Many times the surgery is simply a gift for graduating, securing a full-time job, or a show of social status and wealth. There is also the peer pressure and a certain "going with the flow, following friends" mentality that can spur a person on. Since there are many different way to perform the surgery alongside different styles, bold or subtle, many women seek to have a small change while keeping their Asian looking eyes.
While there is no real answer today what the main motivation is for changing one's eyelids, when people are forced to alter an integral aspect of their identity in order to show status, move ahead in the workplace, believe themselves to be more beautiful, or worse, to avoid racism and bullying, it truly says something. This procedure, so rooted in racism and cultural imperialism, has effectively become normalized. While modern trends and the cuteness craze in Japan offer a different standpoint for going under the knife, there is no denying that in every surgery performed, there is a small piece of cultural imperialism left behind in the newly carved eyelids of Japanese women.
References:
Chow,
K. (2014, November 17). Is Beauty In The Eye(Lid) Of The Beholder? Retrieved
April 18, 2017, from
http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2014/11/17/363841262/is-beauty-in-the-eye-lid-of-the-beholder
Connor,
M. (2014, July 27). Is Race Plastic? My Trip Into the 'Ethnic Plastic Surgery'
Minefield. Retrieved April 19, 2017, from
http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/07/ethnic-plastic-surgery.html
Jones,
A. (2010). The Feminism and visual culture reader. London: Routledge.
McLelland, M.
(2016). The
end of cool Japan. Ethical, legal, and cultural challenges to Japanese popular
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Basingstoke: Taylor & Francis Ltd.
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(2014, August 11). How Japanese Girls Manipulate Their Eyelids. Retrieved April
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